News:

New Board:  Forum Support (Below Chandlery). Forum Support to submit any questions.

Main Menu

Wanted: RV-10 V-drive

Started by SailonJennings, November 17, 2016, 02:30:22 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

SailonJennings

Hello,
Just got a Pearson 367 cutter and the v-drive is full of water and needs a rebuild or replacement.  I'm leaning towards a replacement if I can find a good deal.
Please pm me if ya have a lead on one.
Best,
Caleb

Sailorlou

Had the same problem many years ago, rebuilt mine. 
It would probably be cheaper to just rebuild the V-Drive then tp purchase another, depending on its condition.  Tear it down and take a look.  In all likelihood any used one you find will require servicing as well.
Lou<br />Captain - s/v FarAway<br />1983 Pearson 367, Hull #46

SailonJennings

I read in an earlier post that Warner gives an incentive to buying a new improved version because it's just a tad more than buying all the parts to rebuild an old one.

SVJourney

After seeing if PeteW still has one, (which I would definitely go with!), if he doesn't, I would just give them a call.  They can tell you what you need, and what would be best.  Very helpful and good customer service there.

Make sure you have your serial number off the box.  They want that before they make any quotes.  If you can't find it, they call our boxes a "Pearson special".
www.GalleyWenchTales.com is our cruising blog.

P69

I have a 367 with an RV-26 that a PO installed years ago.  It fits, but it's a tight fit.


SailonJennings

Thanks Journey. Yeah haven't heard back from Pete yet.  Will give Warner a call to get a quote.

SailonJennings

Thanks P69. When you say "PO" I assume you mean 'previous owner'.  From what I've read on here installing anything but the RV-10 becomes a custom job having to install custom built parts?  In any case im not at the boat yet - just bought it.  Im in Oregon and flying out to the boat in FL first week of December.  Be good to get out of the rain for a bit!

P69

Yes, a Previous Owner should have modified, but did not.  The bottom width of the RV26 barely fits in the V drive sump. It touches on the two sides, so the metal remains wet and rusts. The beds appeared to be original (wood encased in fiberglass) and the brackets (1/4" angle iron) were lag screwed to the bed with 1/2" dia SS lag screws. 

One modification that was made was a cutout in the cabin sole for the dip stick (see attached picture).  This weakened that part of he sole they cut into a structural beam.  I couldn't see any other way around that. I'm going to reinforce that beam.

Here are pictures of my V drive work. They might help you in your assessment. One other flaw in my boat ('82 ,Hull #42)was that the v drive sump had a 1/4" drain hole to the deep bilge and continually clogged up, retaining water under the v drive. This caused extensive rust on the lower end of the v drive. I removed and rebuild all that so water drains around the drive, not into its sump.


http://bodylens.com/Gallery/thumbnails.php?album=25

SailonJennings

P69 did you install the RV-26 over the RV-10 because it is a superior model?  Also what is the gear ratio? Is it still 2:1?  Do you have a universal 5444 like me?  I see a RV-26 model on eBay but it lists the gear ratio as 1.46:1.  Also I would like to avoid at all costs having to remove the fridge and drilling a hole for the dipstick.  Here is an eBay listing for the RV-26:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/WALTER-RV-26D-1-46-1-RATIO-BOAT-GEAR-V-DRIVE-with-Cooler-/121914255011?hash=item1c62a7e6a3:g:XuoAAOSwu1VW2dLS&vxp=mtr

P69

I did nto instal the RV26, it was in the boat when I bought int in 2012. Based on the V drive serial number, Walter said the v drive was shipped in 2003.

The gear ratio in the RV26 is 1:1. The hurth ZF15 has a 1.88 to 1.95 ratio

From what I understand, you need  2:1 reduction in the drive system and that us usually at in the gear box; therefore, you need a 1:1 in the V drive

Here is a thread the might help you a bit.  http://www.pearson365.com/forum/index.php?topic=1176.15

Yes, I have a 5444 like you. my boat's a 1982, hull #42.

That one on ebay looks similar to mine, but I don't have that cylindrical thing that looks like a heat exchanger  those mounts will be tossed into the trash because you'll barely have the width with mounts that are right close to the drive.




SailonJennings

Ok thanks for the link and info.  I know a little about engines but this V-drive thing is totally new to me.  I'll check out the link you mentioned.
Cheers!

PeteW

#11
Sailon,
I would like to offer you some recommendations as to what to do but all we know is that you have some unknown model of V-drive that is full of water. So I'm guessing the worst which would be that your boat was repowered with a 1554 with a Hurth gearbox and they left the RV-10 in there.

You need a V drive geared at 1:1 to prop your boat. But it does not matter what gear ratio it is because since putting the gear reduction before the V-drive you have exceed the HP rating on the RV-10. An RV-10 geared 1:1 is rated at 2.7 HP/100 RPM . 75. Since you put the gear reduction before the V drive your RV-10 max HP rating is 2.7 x 16 x .75 = 32 HP. The Universal is 44 HP so that's a no go. Note that HP is work and does not change with gear reduction.

You have 2 options:
1. Remove the Hurth and install a direct drive Borg Warner Velvet Drive. Rebuilt the RV-10 V drive and leave it as 2:1. I assume that's what you have so this a  proper and viable solution.  You HP rating will now be 2.0 x 30 x .75 = 45 HP. You now have margin albeit 1 HP. The RV 10 at 2:1 is rated at 2HP/100 RPM. The .75 is the de-rating for diesel.

2.Leave the Hurth and its gear reduction in there. Get a 1:1 RV-20 which is smaller than an RV-26. The RV-20 is rated at 6hp/100 RPM. Your HP rating is 6 x 16 x .75 = 72HP. If your RV-10 is scrap perhaps this is the less expensive solution. But once you go through the trouble of fitting the V drive  and realigning the engine and its shafts you may very well wish you went for option 1.

Pete