Author Topic: Westerbeke 4-107  (Read 26367 times)

Maruska

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Westerbeke 4-107
« on: February 05, 2007, 11:52:44 AM »
I ran the engine prior to pulling it out of the boat.  No smoke, no bad noises.  After I got it home if became obvious that it had been rebuilt at one time or another.  I pulled the rocker cover and did a full inspection of the valve train and lashed the valves.  Cylinder compression checked out.  I didn’t have or want to spend the money for a rebuild so I replaced some gaskets, thermostat, hoses and the raw water impeller and buttoned it back up.  A half a dozen cans of paint remover and it was ready for paint.


 
The nipple on the exhaust manifold looked questionable and so did the custom water injection manifold.  


The nipple would not come out and because I ruined the threads trying, I resorted to more drastic measures.


I resorted to the old hack saw blade trick to cut a slot and allow the nipple to implode on itself.  The real trick is not to go too deep and wreck the threads in the manifold, thus the hack saw blade by hand.


Once the grove is cut, pressure with the wrench collapsed the nipple and it popped right out.


For the record the engine does fit nicely into a Honda CRV.  I used the main boom and picked it up and drove the truck out from underneath it. You can barely see the custom set of double grove alternator drive pulleys.

The key to reinstalling the engine turned out to be a U-shaped hanger that I welded up out of some 2"x2" square stock.  This allowed me to lift the engine and slide it under the bridge deck.  The lifting chain held the bulk of the weight off of the two lifting brackets on the engine, and the tunicate held the output shaft and allowed me to adjust the hanging angle (by twisting the rope) to match the angle of the bunks with the board.


Once the engine was in rough position I readjusted the position of the U-hanger, lifted the tailshaft by hand and guided (pushed) the engine right into place.

I drilled the nuts on the drive shaft connection and safety wired them together with stainless wire.  I can’t imagine what would happen if the drive shaft ever parted from the transmission tail shaft while at RPM! Better safe than sorry.

Done for now... Oh ya... The Engine was shot in a two part Dupont Imron polyurethane, and yes that is a custom polished billet aluminum oil filler cap.  It was made by a good friend of mine by the name of Nick Powers.  He made what you see, hollowed out the back side and pressed the ugly stock cap into it.  The heat exchanger is a stock exchanger that I shot in silver Imron.  Eat your hearts out!
« Last Edit: February 11, 2011, 09:31:19 PM by Maruska »
"Maruska"
Pearson 365 Cutter Ketch
1976 Hull #40
Buffalo, N.Y.

SV THIRD DAY

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« Reply #1 on: February 05, 2007, 12:17:49 PM »
BeStill my panting Heart....She is a work of Art...A Flat out work of ART!
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by SV THIRD DAY »
Rich Boren
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S/V THIRD DAY
Hudson Force 50 Ketch...but we MISS our Pearson 365!!!!
Blog:http://www.sailblogs.com/member/svthirdday/

Maruska

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More stuff
« Reply #2 on: February 05, 2007, 12:38:30 PM »
Thanks Rich...  A couple other little details that can be seen in the last photograph.
1)   You can see the beginnings of the "double width" engine cowl.  I looked and looked at 365's and felt with the exception of the double sink, the larger galley sink cabinet was a mistake.  It totally eliminated engine access to one very important side of the motor.  So… I decided that I would downsize the galley cabinet and up size the engine cowl.  It will have an up hinging top that incorporates a top loading storage locker on the starboard side and a pull out cutlery drawer on the port side.  The slanted front panel will totally lift out once the top is lifted up. The only downside that I could see was the loss of one bowl of the sink.  For this reason we are limited to a single bowl sink, but who wants to do dishes any way?  A mesh bag over the stern and in a half an hour of dragging and the dishes are perfect!
2)   If you remember the icebox, or at least that half of it was gone when I got the boat.  If you look closely you will note that the new ice box carcass is installed in this picture, and I built it with round corners.  You can see the African Pear Wood paneling with the kerf cuts in the back of it to allow me to bend it around the outside radius.  I did this to match the starboard bunk base corner that was round from the factory. But… that is another story…
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Maruska »
"Maruska"
Pearson 365 Cutter Ketch
1976 Hull #40
Buffalo, N.Y.

Maruska

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Ice Box
« Reply #3 on: February 05, 2007, 12:49:11 PM »
Here is a picture of the corner I mentioned.  
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Maruska »
"Maruska"
Pearson 365 Cutter Ketch
1976 Hull #40
Buffalo, N.Y.

ConchyJoe

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« Reply #4 on: February 05, 2007, 03:42:13 PM »
It looks really great, but a lot of the pictures are missing from you photo bucket.

My question is with the polyurethane you shot the engine with act like in insulation blanket as well potentially burn because of the fact that it is not that high temp?
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by ConchyJoe »

SV THIRD DAY

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« Reply #5 on: February 07, 2007, 07:08:36 PM »
Amen Henri....Amen!
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by SV THIRD DAY »
Rich Boren
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S/V THIRD DAY
Hudson Force 50 Ketch...but we MISS our Pearson 365!!!!
Blog:http://www.sailblogs.com/member/svthirdday/

Maruska

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Thanks
« Reply #6 on: February 07, 2007, 08:35:03 PM »
You guys gotta stop.  I am envious of your finished boats.  I look at Sea Dragon with all of her shiny new self-tailers, perfect waxed hull and matching canvas Garner.  And you Doug, with Rocinante and her state of the art wide screen LCD nav station complete with waterproof keyboard and her dual furlers haven’t gone unnoticed.  Kevin’s Pan Dragon that looks perfect and has sails that all look new and every one has a matching Doyle logo!  Henri, I would graciously trade Windriders "to look into list" for my "oh my god, I still gatta do this before..." list.  And Rich with Third Day, your web prowess and your connections with marine equipment suppliers and the goodies you have already acquired make me drool.  
And all of you have sailed your boats, something I have yet to do.  I can only sit there in a gutted out hull and dream.  I can make an engine run like new and look pretty, string some mean wiring and make lots of sawdust, but that is all nothing but a little labor and lots of trial and error over the years.  

By the way... You can indeed get the back articles about Maruska from Good Old Boat.  I highly recommend that you do subscribe however, as I have since the first issue that I picked up several years ago.  They are a down to earth publication that is just full of boaters that love and work on their own boats just like all of us do.  I would also hope you kindly mention that you like the Maruska series.

Dale Tanski
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Maruska »
"Maruska"
Pearson 365 Cutter Ketch
1976 Hull #40
Buffalo, N.Y.

Maruska

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Henri
« Reply #7 on: February 07, 2007, 09:59:11 PM »
Henri,
Thanks so much for all the kind comments.  

Oil filter – There is a remote filter option available for the 4-107 and I would assume most other engines.  It allows you to place the oil filter in a more convenient accessible location.  It includes an aluminum manifold that screws on the oil filter threaded nipple where your oil filter is located now.  It has two threaded holes for hoses, that go to a bracket mounted base for the stock oil filter.  This allows you to mount the oil filter vertically with the mating face up.  This minimizes spillage, as the filter is unscrewed.  I found that a windshield washer fluid plastic jug, with the bottom cut off and the cap screwed on, makes a great funnel/oil catcher that you can hold underneath with your free hand while you remove the filter.  The remote mount can go anywhere the hoses can reach.  The hoses only need to take the heat (approx 200 degrees F) and minimum pressure (80 psi).  Hydraulic hoses work fine.  
If you can’t locate one of these kits, or a kit is no longer available, let me know and I will look into making you one.  

Fuel pressure switch – It sounds like you have possibly bypassed your early warning system by hot wiring it to the key (positive power source) thus eliminating the low oil pressure switch and high temperature switch.  I don’t have the engine manual with me at home, but I think you meant that it closed the circuit for the engine gages and the alarm system once the fuel pressure was up to snuff.  Unfortunately, Westerbeke had several wiring schemes for their W40 over the years.  They at one time used oil pressure to control the same circuits.  Mine was so bad I just ditched the whole thing, but I did have remnants of both systems and a heater element in the air intake for cold weather starting.  Westerbeke also had an either injector system available.  
I have simplified it down to… a water temp sender for a temperature gage, an oil pressure sender for an oil pressure gage and a Normally Open oil pressure switch to run an LCD hour meter.  When the oil pressure goes above 10 psi the LCD hour meter runs.  Before I am finished, I will install a switch for over temp alarm.  
I am not even running a tachometer.  This is for several reasons.  First of all, most sailors listen for RPM.  Who really gives a rip if you are running at 2100 or 2300 rpm, it is the knots you are after.  Besides, most drivelines have a few sweet spots we run them that at because they run quieter there, less vibration.  I understand that a tach will give you feedback about a slipping transmission, but only if you know what you are looking for.  It could be weeds on the prop or cavitation.  
This is my own personal choice, and I am sure many of you are groaning right about now.  The other reason that I eliminated the tach, is that it is electrically driven off of the alternator field winding output.  A certain output relates to a certain RPM.  I machined a set of double pulleys for my engine to spin a 120 amp Balmar alternator.  You must run a double sheave setup or the new style automotive flat belt to transmit enough horsepower, and it just can’t be done with a single belt unless you get up into “D” series profiles.  “D” profiles don’t like the small radius that are required.  Lots of guys cheat, and install a turnbuckle tensioning system to up the belt tension on a single belt setup when they bolt on a high amp alternator.  This does help, but it eats belts like crazy.  They fail from thermal loading (prematurely turn to ash) because the belt length is short (longer means a longer time to dissipate heat) and you are now forcing the belt to transmit the horsepower required by the alternator.  They slip for a reason!  Hiding the symptom does not help.  Perkins / Westerbeke has technical bulletins that site crank breakage where turnbuckle tensioners are installed due to the high moment (side) loading from the increased belt tension.  
Anyway… I made new, large diameter double pulleys.  The larger diameters do two things.  One it provides larger radius which equates to increased horsepower transfer and longer belt life.  At the same time, they overdrive my alternator.  This means my alternator turns slightly faster than it normally would at any given engine running RPM.  This means more amp output at lower RPM’s.  Who doesn’t want that? I would have to go back and look at my drawings and calculations, but I think I am overdriving by approx. 15%.  So… if I used a standard electronic diesel tach, my RPM numbers would be way off.  
I hope and think that I answered your questions.  
Dale Tanski
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Maruska »
"Maruska"
Pearson 365 Cutter Ketch
1976 Hull #40
Buffalo, N.Y.

Maruska

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Re: Westerbeke 4-107
« Reply #8 on: February 12, 2011, 08:05:54 AM »
I reloaded the pictures.  I do not have a clue where they went!

Dale
"Maruska"
Pearson 365 Cutter Ketch
1976 Hull #40
Buffalo, N.Y.

Henri Hali

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Re: Westerbeke 4-107
« Reply #9 on: February 12, 2011, 10:55:48 AM »
Dale:

Thanks for reloading the photos. GOD.... you do good work!!!!
You may have been reading my mind. For the past several weeks I've been wrestling with the prospect of pulling the engine, replacing the mounts, "sound proofing" and while at it, "Taskizing" the engine.
The motivation is not that I'm looking for more projects, but I suspect I have a minor fuel tank leak. (Thank goodness we have diesel )
My tank is aluminum, and since I have an "In house master welder" (My Yale contact) I figure it makes sense to pull the tank out through the cabin. I'm assuming I can do so without having to cut it up and then welding it where it leaks.

I doubt if I'll get to it by this boating season, but will definitely put it on the top of the list for next fall.

Here's where I call on your expertize again!
Can you send me the construction and dimensions of the gizzo you fabricated to pull the engine?  I'll have my friend make one for me. AND, feel free to add any other insight you may want to share when I tackle this!!!

That's it for the moment. Now I'm off to see if I can borrow some snow shoes, reach Windrider reported to be behind a wall of snow, and try to install my new water heater. Does anyone know when high tide is????

Henri
Henri Hali
S/V Windrider
1980 Pearson 365 Hull # 316

Maruska

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Re: Westerbeke 4-107
« Reply #10 on: February 12, 2011, 05:01:39 PM »
Henri,

I will look for the drawing of the "hook".  I draw everything and tend to save all but the most trivial items.  Dittos on the snow.  It has been snowing all morning.  We got another 6 to 8 on the 4 to 6 we got yesterday. 

Dale
"Maruska"
Pearson 365 Cutter Ketch
1976 Hull #40
Buffalo, N.Y.

Bay Sailor

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Re: Westerbeke 4-107
« Reply #11 on: December 13, 2011, 04:37:58 PM »
Hey fellows, this is a terrific conversation going on and one I'll need to learn from very, very soon, as I'm removing my Westerbeke 4108 and replacing it with a Perkins 4108 that has been rebuilt from an empty block and has 3 hours on it.
First, is it actually possible to remove/reinstall without making major remodeling of the "doghouse" directly beneath the companionway ladder? I'm on a sloop but I don't think its the same as the ketches. The mechanic says yes, maybe I'll just trust him.

Second, does anyone know the exact dimensions of the engine mounts for Perkins 4108? I'll put new ones in but a seagoing sailor friend tells me I should only get them from an outfit in Australia: Poly Flex http://polyflex.com.au/    because they are such incredibly great mounts. If I order them I'll need to tell them exactly what I need of course. If anyone can help please let me know.

Third question: Maruska, what did you use/do to make the engine compartment so clean and almost inviting? Great job that I'd like to repeat.

Thanks all,
Mark
S/V Seascape
P365 Sloop
Hull #345