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Pearson 365/367 Yacht Club / Re: 367 Traveling (Baby) Stays
« Last post by LLCOOLDAVE on March 23, 2018, 10:57:55 PM »
Well, I'll chime in. I just purchased a 367. From what I've read running backstays are used to counteract the force of using the inner forestay, the staysail. Going wing on wing you won't be using the staysail so you won't be using the running backstays for that point of sail.

I sailed across the atlantic (2017) on a Tartan 41 (circa 1975). It had an inner forestay for a storm jib and running backstays. We didn't use any of it.

Going upwind in strong winds, a reefed main and no genoa, a staysail on the boom. Use the windward running backstay.
That's all I've got.
Pearson General Non-Mechanical System Maintenance and Repair / Re: New screens
« Last post by Hooligan on March 22, 2018, 09:47:56 PM »
  Thanks.  I took then to two screen repair places and had no luck. Well I guess I could always replace
 them with New Found Metal ports for $3000. Gulp!  My boat would look fantastic.
Pearson General Non-Mechanical System Maintenance and Repair / Re: New screens
« Last post by Maruska on March 22, 2018, 08:42:13 PM »
The company Bomar was swallowed up by a much bigger company called Pomanette some time ago.  I have looked for screens for Bomar vintage ports in the past for several customers with out much luck.  You can still buy the exact deck hatch that 365/7's have and all of the latches, knobs and hold open devices, but I have never seen replacement screens for those old 40 year ports.

If you have any luck please let me know.

Dale Tanski
Maruska Hull #40
Pearson General Non-Mechanical System Maintenance and Repair / New screens
« Last post by Hooligan on March 22, 2018, 02:27:20 PM »
  I have a P367 with all opening Bomar ports and I need to replace the screens. Anyone know where I can have them repaired or replaced with new ones?
I'm afraid that choosing a suitable bottom paint is not quite that simple.  Like anchors, sail makers, life jackets or even boat designers,  everyone if asked will have their own specific opinion.  Bottom paint is perhaps worse.  Everything you wanted to know about bottom paint is one of my best attended seminars during our off season loft talk series, perhaps because it is so necessary and so expensive. 

As a marine retailer we see and hear it all.  There are customers that only want a specific color, or shade of blue, or will only buy paint in a specific price point no matter what.  Typically when some one inquires about bottom paint my first question is what type of boat? In your case that question is obvious.  Power boats and sailboats have very different anti fouling performance requirements. The next question is what are you going to do with the boat, race or just day sail.  I ask them is they know what paint is currently on the boat, how that paint is holding up.  Then I want to know where the boat specifically located?  I want to know the specific marina and even where in that marina that boat spends its time. 

Water depth, water temperature, is the water moving or still, all of that matters.  The colder the water the less pron growth is. Shallow water that is warm in temperature, still and non moving is the toughest to protect in.  Basically it is a petri dish and everything likes to grown it.

Your best bet is to look at the boats surrounding you.  Ask your neighbors what they use and would they put that specific product on again.  Look at the bottoms that are hauled out before they are pressure washed. What do they look like and what are they using.  Many yards apply either what they are told to put on or what has the best margin.  Ask the yard staff.  See if they have a preference and why.  Your local marine retailer that has local knowledge is your best bet.  Yes they too would like to sell you the highest grossing product but hopefully they will lead you in the right direction.

Be careful of store branded products.  Who made it?  They certinally did not.  What's in it, they really don't know.  How many years and where has it been tested?  What is it really comparable to and how does it match up to from a value standpoint.  This goes for all store brand products.  Remember Sears has never made a lawn mower of a single tool or appliance. They buy someone elses product, mark it up and resell it to you. If they were proud of the manufacture, or they wanted you to intelligently compare their product with any one elses, they would advertise who really made it.

Bottom paint has several functions.  One is of course appearance.  This is much more a priority to power boaters than sailors.  Often when I ask "what is the condition of your current bottom paint?" I get "it looks fine."  Not a good answer, looks have nothing to do with how it performs.  Are there any anti biological agents left in the paint. Are the resins dead and it is starting to physically beak down?  Remember, you can put the best bottom paint over old dead paint perhaps 3 layers deep, and it will fall off as the old dead stuff flakes off because it has physically died. Not a prudent investment. 

The biological agents contained in your bottom paint leech out of the applied paint a little at a time. Once they are gone it is nothing but a coat of paint.  You are paying for several things.  One is the amount of anti slime, critter killing stuff (I like to say agent orange) it contains and how controlled it is dispersed.  The other is how it holds up physically.  In paints that are ablative, (wear away over time) the better the paint the quicker and more evenly it wears away.  Now all of this might seem a little counter intuitive but if an ablative paint takes ten years to wear off whats the point?  They best ablative paint and one of the most expensive I sell to my racing customers, is gone by the end of the racing season. The leading edge of the keel and the rudder are bald.  When this happens there is never a build up that has to be removed and a good bottom remains smooth and slippery.

One last thought...  What ever you apply, it is only for a season or two.  Learn form past applications. If the boat never moves a little hair under the keel is not a big deal.

Dale Tanski
Obersheimer Sailor Supply
Buffalo, NY
Maruska Hull 40 Ketch

Hey all,
Has anyone found a particular bottom paint that has worked well in high fouling areas?
I've got a much needed bottom job coming up soon and don't have a clue which works the best. (in the water year round)
Ok slow progress for a few weeks, but Ive been busy with a few small projects. I had to make a battery box for the engine start battery, and a bracket for the small fuel tank to fit in the lazerette. Both are accomplished out of plywood and fibreglass. The battery box is 1/4" marine ply bonded together in the lower half to make it 1/2" thick with a 1/4" lip about 6" high, over the height of the battery.

In this way the lid fits outside the lip until it contacts the thicker lower side. There are rubber parts inside to prevent the battery moving around too much, but the confines are quite tight in any event. The plywood is covered on the flat areas with woven rovings, 2" glass tape is used on all the edges to provide additional strength.
A rubber strop fastens the top to the bottom of the box attached by kitchen draw knobs screwed and epoxied in place.

The bracket is also marine ply, similarly covered on the flat sections with woven rovings, and tape on the edges. I did it this way because the plywood in this case is just 3/8" thick and its hard to control or form decent edges folding the woven rovings over. 3/8" is too thin to make a decent rounded edge, but tape allows you to affix one side, then roll it over the edge when the first side is set. This offers just a bit more control and allows good contact with the tape to the edge and the edges of the glass on the flat surfaces. Four plywood inner webs tabbed between two similar previously described sheets make a very light but remarkably stiff interface to suspend the tank from just one edge of the lazerette.

Also acquired a 20A 12v xantrex 3 bank charger and had that aboard assessing the run of wiring and where to mount the charger. I completely forgot to get adequate connections for the wire ends so I shall have to go back to the chandlers tomorrow.

Apologies for the vignet on some of the photos, its from the aperture around the lens in the cover my ipad.

Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Oh not the RUST!
« Last post by Nereid on March 19, 2018, 08:42:45 AM »
Thanks guys, and yes the drive shaft... How difficult was it to remove? I am debating about doing the same thing so I don't have to replace it early.
Also, the rust has be accumulating while we have been sitting at the doc. I wonder if it has to do with the 2 weeks straight of 100% (felt like 200%) humidity.
Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Oh not the RUST!
« Last post by Hooligan on March 18, 2018, 02:25:09 PM »
 I assume you are talking about the drive shaft and not the stainless steel prop shaft.  I just removed my
drive shaft, had it sandblasted for $15.00 and painted it with Por 15.  Hopefully it will stay rust free for a few years.
Chandlery / Re: For Sale: '81 / 365 Ketch Hull #394
« Last post by Leo II on March 16, 2018, 07:55:28 AM »
Hi Phil, 

Sorry to hear about your diagnosis.  I hope the sale of your boat is easy.  I ride an annual bike fundraiser for ALS research. If anyone wants to donate: That would be super helpful.

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