Recent Posts

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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Paragon SAOD what not to do.
« Last post by stbtack1 on August 12, 2018, 04:06:43 PM »
Henri, keep us posted on the cost if the velvet drive conversion.
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I want to thank everyone for their help. I found the problem. The charger was bad.
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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Pearson 365 Main Mast Step
« Last post by ZULU40 on August 11, 2018, 02:13:48 AM »
If I had it over I would craft the step out of aluminum but phenolic  is a good idea

the tension rod it attached to a box like weldment aft of the mast on the step
its goes up through the cabin roof with a simple lock nut and washer
you need to accommodate that weldment or similar on the step

Im not sure of the diagram you are looking at but my own step was welded
It has slots for holes in the base like the original part did
and the carriage bolts go through the hull into the lead of the keel below, should probably use TeffGell there

the mast needs to be adjusted for rake, then this is how its done
although riggers are pretty expert at achieving an amazing amount of curve in the mast which is somewhat the same thing

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Ok so the struggle of wills with the Zodiac goes on
Its taken a long time to clear away all the old adhesive and the remaining fixtures for the transom
This is probably peculiar to Zodiac, and I understand why they have don it this way, but I think they fell a bit short when they built these boats
The transoms should have been epoxied to protect the plies, and it is a common fault to these boats.

You buy a Zodiac its either going to be hypalon or PVC. Both will have a plywood transom, this ones an inch thick.
Problem for them is, the adhesive wont stick to the plywood, so they cant join the transom to the boat.
While there is a work around I will describe later, this probably isnt good enough for the critical part of the boat that carries the power unit.

The way they get around this is to mechanically heat bond a white plastic edge to the plywood, so all they have to worry about is the plastic bond to the cuffs pf the transom support.
This particular bit of plastic is both glued and heat bonded around the ends of the transom through holes allowing both sides of the plastic to be joined.
There were 9 holes per side each about 3/8" in diameter, and the bond between the two parts was almost perfectly executed with a good merge between the cuffs and the transom
While MEK is of some use on the easy bits, mostly the entire parts have to be cut out of the boat with a knife after heat gun, which turns the white plastic into the consistency of an eraser rubber

Obviously this quite clever process is something I cant replicate, and at the same time I desire to coat the transom with epoxy so Im not doing this again in 5 years.
So my problem now is gluing the epoxy coated plywood transom to the PVC edges of the transom cuffs on the main tubes of the boat
Its the same old rule, PVC glue wont stick to epoxy, while I could probably epoxy the transom to the cuffs, but it wont ever come out ever again
While thats still a possibility there is one other way I can think of.

I can use hypalon adhesive painted on the transom, because PVC glue will stick to it. I know of zodiac repairers that have done this.
So I can go ahead with the epoxy transom, use 5200 all around the cuffs which offers at least some chance of repair removal later, and PVC/hypalon on the bottom of the boat
I just think that in this place the more malleable properties of 5200 is desirous instead of an epoxy joint that will be rock hard
For additional security the transom could have as many as 18 3/8" bolts mechanically securing the parts together
A test fit carried out the other day suggests that once this thing is back together I cant see why it would fall apart other than adhesives totally failing

The attached images demonstrate the trial fit of the transom
You can see the black cuff that supports the plywood transom where it secures to the boat
These parts I think I will flood with 5200 after the transom is flow coated, and the bond to the ply will use the hypalon adhesive trick to glue the material to the plywood bottom


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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Emergency tiller cockpit port access
« Last post by jeffg on August 09, 2018, 12:41:25 AM »
Lol.  Okay, I removed it earlier today and ordered a Beckson replacement hatch.  Now, I'll have to see if I can find that emergency tiller.
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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Emergency tiller cockpit port access
« Last post by SVJourney on August 06, 2018, 11:27:35 AM »
Jeff,
You MAY have the only aluminum access port left in the fleet.  The rest of us had to replace them already.  (and penetrant, heat, time and sweat hasn't helped anyone to my knowledge)  Most replaced with a standard plastic port available at West Marine or any other chandler for a fairly cheap price.
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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Emergency tiller cockpit port access
« Last post by jeffg on August 06, 2018, 11:13:41 AM »
Thanks for posting this.  I also have not been able to open the aluminum emergency tiller access port on my P365.  The PO said he never opened it (18 years).  I think I may just remove the whole port the whole thing and replace it with a new one.  I have tried penetrating oil for the last couple of weeks with no luck.

I have been going through the equipment, and now I know what the emergency tiller looks like.  I'm hoping I find it and don't have to make one.

Jeff
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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Pearson 365 Main Mast Step
« Last post by jeffg on August 06, 2018, 11:07:05 AM »
Peter,
I am finally getting to this project (the boat is finally in my yard after a long wait).  Can you offer any details about 3 things:

1.  How is the tension rod attached?  It looks like you embedded a bolt in the block (maybe countersinking it upside down in one layer) and then attached the rod to the bolt with a barrel nut.  Is that right?

2.  From the mechanical drawing that I found, it looks like you just bolted the retaining wings (for lack of a better term) to the block with carriage bolts, and then used longer carriage bolts through the block to hold it down.

3.  Did you ever consider making the through holes into slots to give you some adjustability?

Thanks,
Jeff
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Is the charger specifically design to charge AGM's? The charge rate and voltage curve for AGM's are different than traditional wet or Gel batteries. 

How are you measuring the voltage drop?  Many analog meters are just designed to be used as a reference.  I would agree a good digital meter perhaps would be the answer in itself.  An analog meter operating in the same range can often develop a worn spot in the gear train and you may be seeing just that when it hunts between the .5 and .2 volts.

Just a thought....
Dale
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Pearson General Non-Mechanical System Maintenance and Repair / Re: A Sail
« Last post by Maruska on August 05, 2018, 07:55:23 AM »
Carl,
When purchasing an asymmetrical spinnaker where you use it (conditions) and what you want to achieve when using it is more important than all of your other questions. That answer will dictate how large, construction, cloth configuration and the cost of the sail.  If you sail in San Francisco bay for example you would probably be looking at an A4 or A5 which are cut smaller, built heavier than say an A1 or A2.  If your intended sailing waters were Newport Rhode Island in the dead of summer, an A1 or A2 would be perfect due to that areas light winds better suiting those spinnakers bigger size and lighter construction.

The difference between an A1 and an A2 although both designed for lighter air, is that the A1 is a reaching cut designed to sail between 70 and 110 degrees apparent angle off of the wind, and the A2 is designed to sail deeper at 105 to 155 degrees apparent off of the wind.  The A2 would be more of a runner.  Asymmetrical spinnakers are not designed to sail much lower than 160 degrees off of the wind. To achieve that a traditional symmetrical cut kite would be utilized complete with spinnaker pole. Where asym kites shine is 150 degrees and up to around 90 degrees apparent. They are easier to rig and fly as the clew is attached to the boat much like your head sail however the luff is free to roam.

The intended use and the wind speed anticipated dictates the proper selection of the spinnaker materials and construction.  Those items determine the cut (thread orientation) and the type (material) of cloth.  Cloth weight today has very little to do with the design unless it is a one design racing sail that has a class rule limit.  Today it is all about the fiber material and actual physical weight of the sail.  Like many things the lighter and higher performance the cloth, the more it costs.

Your best bet is to talk to a reputable sail maker and honestly determine where you intend to use this spinnaker (intended wind ranges) and what you trying to achieve.  If your goal is to continue to sail when the wind speed drops way off, that would be one type of sail. If you are looking to improve your down wind performance above wing on wing that is another sail.  If you desire both that would be yet another. 

Either way, you indicated you sail alone.  If that is the case you should consider a dousing sock or perhaps a top down furler.  Both will allow you to set and retrieve your spinnaker shorthanded.  Having an autopilot to hold a course while all of this is going on I would think is a necessity as you will have to leave the cockpit to rig, set and retrieve no matter which method you choose.

Having an asymmetrical or traditional spinnaker aboard greatly improves your off the wind performance and provides you with additional choices to a slating main and jib or the rattle of the engine.

If you would like additional information or further help, give us a call at (716) 877-8221 and talk to my son Eric who is our loft manager.

Good sailing
Dale Tanski
Obersheimer Sailing Supply
Buffalo, Ny
Maruska
Hull #40 Ketch
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