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Topics - SV Alfresco

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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Walter V-drive Identification
« on: March 14, 2019, 12:48:19 PM »
I looking to buy a folding propeller. One of the things I need to know is the gear ratio. And I'm having trouble reading the plate on the v-drive. I think the drive is an RV-10. It looks just like the one in the manual. I've attached a picture of the plate and it looks like the ratio is 1.20/1. Is that the final ratio I have to use for getting the right prop. The original fixed prop is a two bladed 18L X 10, I believe. The engine is a 39hp Yanmar and I have the Yanmar transmission. I looking at a flex-o-fold 2 blade. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike




2
On my 367 masthead, there are two separate sets of sheaves, one for the main halyard and one for the jib. On the side of the mast that faces forward, below one of the sheaves is a roller attached to the mast with a bracket and six screws.  As it is rigged now, the jib halyard goes through this. Attached is a picture. I want to know if this is the correct configuration.

Thanks,
Mike

3
I just paid $700 to get my fuel tank cleaned and fuel polished. They removed almost 6 gallons of water and contaminated fuel. Mostly caused by the lousy placement of the fuel filler next to the deck scupper and failure of a $.79 o-ring in the filler cap (I didn't even know it had one.) So I'm posting this so that other people can take a look at theirs.

Mike

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Pearson 365/367 Yacht Club / 1981 367 for sale
« on: April 02, 2018, 12:45:49 PM »
I have a 1981 (hull #9) 367 with new sails, new radar, and a low hours Yanmar for sale.  Contact me offline for a complete description if interested.

Mike

5
I completely revamped my head plumbing a couple of years ago. New head, tank, hoses, vent filter, and macerator.  The problem I'm having is it takes a long time for the macerator to prime. The location is near the top of the tank. I thought maybe I should lower it but didn't want it filled with crap all the time. Last year, I was winterizing the tank with the boat out of the water and ran the macerator (with a bucket underneath the boat) and it primed right away. Same thing this year. I'm wondering if there is not enough push with the outlet under water creating an air lock. I'm going to replace the impeller as a first try.  Anyone have any thoughts on a solution?

Mike


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Where do you attach the spinnaker tack on a 367? Someone suggested on the anchor roller but would that put too much lateral force on the anchor platform?

Mike

7

The water heater I'm installing is higher than the engine, a Yanmar 3jh5e, and I need to replace the coolant expansion tank that goes above the water heater. The one I pulled out is made from a fiberglass type material, and looks much older than the engine. It's been sitting loose on top of the old water heater since I got the boat. I want to replace it with metal if possible since it's pressurized.
Does anyone know where I can purchase an expansion tank that is right for this? I have spent hours searching the web but have not come up with much. From what I can surmise, the tank should be higher than the heater and have a pressure cap with a lower rating than the one on the engine. What those pressure ratings are, I'm not sure. I've read 14 and 7, and 14 and 13.

Thanks,
Mike

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The old Raritan blew out last summer (literally) and it's time for a replacement. I'm looking at a 6 gallon heater and see a wide range of prices from about $250 to $800.   I'm leaning towards the Seaward or Kuuma. I could replace these three times for the price of the Raritan. Also going to replace the belt driven pump while I 'm in there and put in a hose for a cockpit shower. Also have to secure or replace the expansion tank that sitting loose on top of the water heater. Any suggestions or recommendations on size or brand from anyone who has done this?

Thanks,
Mike

9
I want to replace the jib on my 367. The present one was replaced by the previous owner and was made from another sail. I understand the original jib was 95%. I read that Garner replaced his with a 110% some years ago and was thinking about going smaller.  I'm not sure what to get, so I'm asking for opinions here. Also, is there any standards for a yankee jib pertaining to how high the cut should be?  Any recommendation for the staysail? The present staysail is hanked and I prefer not going to the expense for a furler.  I replaced the main last year and it made a huge difference. Can't imagine how good it will be with all new sails.

Thanks,
Mike

10
I want to pass this on if anyone has this problem. My pump stopped working, so I bought a repair kit at CLRmarine, Jabsco Service Kit 30128-0000, for $33 with shipping.  Found out I really didn't need it. The kit consists of a piston pump seal (shaped like a cup on the plunger), a check valve ( a piece of plastic with holes and a rubber disk riveted on top), a a couple of O-rings. I took the pump apart by removing the 3 machine screws. The nuts can be accessed by removing the drawer next to the sink (5/16 socket). It's not necessary to disconnect the hose. When I took the check valve out, I found a little piece on plastic wrap and a piece of styrofoam preventing it from working. The check valve looked in perfect condition. The piston cup is a little worn but coating it with vaseline helps the suction. I guess what I really need is a screen on the inlet.

Mike

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Pearson 365/367 Yacht Club / Webb Institute
« on: October 27, 2016, 12:56:29 PM »
Not sure how many people know about this, but it's a hidden gem. I thought there might be some interest in the group for kids or grand-kids going to college. First-rate engineering degree and great career choices. The price is also right, free tuition. One of my daughters is a recent graduate.

www.webb.edu

12
I have just installed two new Group 31 AGM batteries.One starting and one house for now. A third group 24  for starting will follow when I build a box for it. I have a Balmar 612 regulator that was already there and programming it for AGM. I am adding a Blue Seas ACR. The ACR wiring diagram shows fusible links in the circuit. Should I put fusible links on the positive terminals of each battery or somewhere else?

Mike

13
I have a crack in the skeg on my 367. Looks like an old repair that's coming apart. The crack is about 6' long horizonally in the middle of the upper half of the skeg. Is the skeg solid fiberglass and should I just grind it out and fill it with epoxy?

Thanks,
Mike

Tried to attach a photo but the system says the upload folder is full. Photo is 100k.

14
I'm going to replace the lifelines on my 367. One problem with the present lines is that the lower line interferes with the primary winches. A rigger suggested  that we just remove the lower line in that area. I'm not completely comfortable with that and would like to know what others have done. Also the present gate is about 4' wide. I have been noticing that many other boats have a much smaller gate and it seems more secure. Would you add another stanchion and brace to do this?

Mike

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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Stuck seacock
« on: May 06, 2014, 04:43:03 PM »
I just replaced the complete sanitation system on my 1981 367. I decided not to plumb the raw discharge and to plug the seacock with a bronze plug. The seacock is stuck open and has been that way since a bought the boat 2 seasons ago. It also has a pvc elbow installed with some sort of sealant that I can't get out. I tried heating the housing up but all it does is cause to PVC to get soft and bend when I try to unscrew it. The pvc elbow is pretty much destroyed now. Looks like the seacock is original and the bronze housing has a top piece that might be screwed into the bottom part. This is in the worst place to get to. One idea I have is to cut the top of the pvc elbow off and add heat towards the threads and try to pry the rest of it out and when clean up the threads. Is there a better way to do this? Is there a way to remove the seacock and work on it outside the boat? I'm not going anywhere until I fix this hole in the boat.

Mike

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