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Topics - SV Alfresco

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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Prop shaft center bearing
« on: December 04, 2019, 07:20:37 PM »
I have a problem with vibration in the drivetrain on my 367. I noticed that the prop shaft is touching the top of the shaft log. Looks like the v-drive needs to be lowered and aligned. We checked the prop shaft and it runs true. The mechanic I'm working with wants to add a bearing in the shaft log because the length of the shaft between supports exceeds some standard and possible whipping of the prop shaft could be causing some vibrations. I  think we have uncovered more than enough possible problems that could be causing the problem (i.e. v-drive alignment and cutlass bearing). I am resisting the center bearing idea because I have not seen this on this forum. Any suggestions or opinions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike

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Pearson 365/367 Yacht Club / Newport Boat show
« on: September 13, 2019, 01:02:03 PM »
Anyone on this list going to the boat show this weekend? Like to meet up with you.

Mike

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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Drivetrain Noise
« on: August 01, 2019, 10:41:42 AM »
I get quite a bit of noise when motoring and never having been on another 365/367 I don't know how to quantify it. I have a 367 with a 39hp Yanmar and a ZF transmission. If I take it out of gear and rev the engine, it's pretty smooth. The v-drive and transmission were replaced with the engine about 8 years ago, just before I bought it. The v-drive did have water in it, which wasn't caught in the inspection, and I replaced the gear oil several times to get all the water out. The shaft seal is a PSS. So is shaft noise and some vibration normal? Is anyone near me that I could get a ride in your boat to get some perspective? I'm in Massachusetts and the boat is in Rhode Island.

Mike



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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Walter V-drive Identification
« on: March 14, 2019, 12:48:19 PM »
I looking to buy a folding propeller. One of the things I need to know is the gear ratio. And I'm having trouble reading the plate on the v-drive. I think the drive is an RV-10. It looks just like the one in the manual. I've attached a picture of the plate and it looks like the ratio is 1.20/1. Is that the final ratio I have to use for getting the right prop. The original fixed prop is a two bladed 18L X 10, I believe. The engine is a 39hp Yanmar and I have the Yanmar transmission. I looking at a flex-o-fold 2 blade. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike




5
On my 367 masthead, there are two separate sets of sheaves, one for the main halyard and one for the jib. On the side of the mast that faces forward, below one of the sheaves is a roller attached to the mast with a bracket and six screws.  As it is rigged now, the jib halyard goes through this. Attached is a picture. I want to know if this is the correct configuration.

Thanks,
Mike

6
I just paid $700 to get my fuel tank cleaned and fuel polished. They removed almost 6 gallons of water and contaminated fuel. Mostly caused by the lousy placement of the fuel filler next to the deck scupper and failure of a $.79 o-ring in the filler cap (I didn't even know it had one.) So I'm posting this so that other people can take a look at theirs.

Mike

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Pearson 365/367 Yacht Club / 1981 367 for sale
« on: April 02, 2018, 12:45:49 PM »
I have a 1981 (hull #9) 367 with new sails, new radar, and a low hours Yanmar for sale.  Contact me offline for a complete description if interested.

Mike

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I completely revamped my head plumbing a couple of years ago. New head, tank, hoses, vent filter, and macerator.  The problem I'm having is it takes a long time for the macerator to prime. The location is near the top of the tank. I thought maybe I should lower it but didn't want it filled with crap all the time. Last year, I was winterizing the tank with the boat out of the water and ran the macerator (with a bucket underneath the boat) and it primed right away. Same thing this year. I'm wondering if there is not enough push with the outlet under water creating an air lock. I'm going to replace the impeller as a first try.  Anyone have any thoughts on a solution?

Mike


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Where do you attach the spinnaker tack on a 367? Someone suggested on the anchor roller but would that put too much lateral force on the anchor platform?

Mike

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The water heater I'm installing is higher than the engine, a Yanmar 3jh5e, and I need to replace the coolant expansion tank that goes above the water heater. The one I pulled out is made from a fiberglass type material, and looks much older than the engine. It's been sitting loose on top of the old water heater since I got the boat. I want to replace it with metal if possible since it's pressurized.
Does anyone know where I can purchase an expansion tank that is right for this? I have spent hours searching the web but have not come up with much. From what I can surmise, the tank should be higher than the heater and have a pressure cap with a lower rating than the one on the engine. What those pressure ratings are, I'm not sure. I've read 14 and 7, and 14 and 13.

Thanks,
Mike

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The old Raritan blew out last summer (literally) and it's time for a replacement. I'm looking at a 6 gallon heater and see a wide range of prices from about $250 to $800.   I'm leaning towards the Seaward or Kuuma. I could replace these three times for the price of the Raritan. Also going to replace the belt driven pump while I 'm in there and put in a hose for a cockpit shower. Also have to secure or replace the expansion tank that sitting loose on top of the water heater. Any suggestions or recommendations on size or brand from anyone who has done this?

Thanks,
Mike

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I want to replace the jib on my 367. The present one was replaced by the previous owner and was made from another sail. I understand the original jib was 95%. I read that Garner replaced his with a 110% some years ago and was thinking about going smaller.  I'm not sure what to get, so I'm asking for opinions here. Also, is there any standards for a yankee jib pertaining to how high the cut should be?  Any recommendation for the staysail? The present staysail is hanked and I prefer not going to the expense for a furler.  I replaced the main last year and it made a huge difference. Can't imagine how good it will be with all new sails.

Thanks,
Mike

13
I want to pass this on if anyone has this problem. My pump stopped working, so I bought a repair kit at CLRmarine, Jabsco Service Kit 30128-0000, for $33 with shipping.  Found out I really didn't need it. The kit consists of a piston pump seal (shaped like a cup on the plunger), a check valve ( a piece of plastic with holes and a rubber disk riveted on top), a a couple of O-rings. I took the pump apart by removing the 3 machine screws. The nuts can be accessed by removing the drawer next to the sink (5/16 socket). It's not necessary to disconnect the hose. When I took the check valve out, I found a little piece on plastic wrap and a piece of styrofoam preventing it from working. The check valve looked in perfect condition. The piston cup is a little worn but coating it with vaseline helps the suction. I guess what I really need is a screen on the inlet.

Mike

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Pearson 365/367 Yacht Club / Webb Institute
« on: October 27, 2016, 12:56:29 PM »
Not sure how many people know about this, but it's a hidden gem. I thought there might be some interest in the group for kids or grand-kids going to college. First-rate engineering degree and great career choices. The price is also right, free tuition. One of my daughters is a recent graduate.

www.webb.edu

15
I have just installed two new Group 31 AGM batteries.One starting and one house for now. A third group 24  for starting will follow when I build a box for it. I have a Balmar 612 regulator that was already there and programming it for AGM. I am adding a Blue Seas ACR. The ACR wiring diagram shows fusible links in the circuit. Should I put fusible links on the positive terminals of each battery or somewhere else?

Mike

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