Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - P69

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 19
1
WestMarine has lewmar winches on sale, buy one, get one free.
I compared my ebay/craigslist/local for sale purchase/Defender Demo sales, which I figured were a great deal and this deal is pretty close. ON the larger winches, I got better deal, on the smaller winches, It's close. Two winches arrived broken (rough shipping). that got resolved with no  money loss, only some time lost

Sale good through Monday, 3/11/19. 

I just did a comparison of what I paid over the last several years on winch replacement with This WM special. I paid $200 - $300 less than the special. If any needs good deal on winches and doesn't want to watch for sale ads, this might be a great time.

Attached is my spreadsheet for y'all to decide if is this is your good deal.

2
Jpenoley,

What did you use for the sprayed urethane foam?  Those cans from Home Depot/Lowes or some other setup?

3
General Photos / Cabin Sole hatch expansion and Foredeck Hatch Dam
« on: January 06, 2019, 11:12:43 PM »
I uploaded some pictures of my last two projects.

1. Build a dam around the forward hatch to prevent sheets from snagging the hatch and prevent solid water form pushing against the underside of the hatch.

2. Expand access to the bilge. I made molds of the existing openings in the cabin sole and made additional recesses that I glued (polyester putty) into new holes I cut in the cabin sole. The double opening I cut adjacent to the mast left a weak cabin sole. I strengthened that by adding 1 1/4" x 2" poplar floor joists, encapsulated in epoxy/1708. Now the sole is solid, even with all the  holes. I added two single openings forward of the head and two doubles. One to port of the existing factory-molded double and one to port of the narrow factory-molded opening at the mast.

My gelcoat color matching is still not very good, especially with the brownish color of the non-skid. The cabin sole is made up of the upper skin (the surface you walk on) that is about 1/8" to 3/16" fiberglass. 3/4" end-grain balsa, then about a 1/16" lower skin.

I have temporary floorboards in place. The finished floor boards will be part of a new teak cabin sole overlay. That will be near the end of the projects (distant future).

Hatch dam: http://bodylens.com/Gallery/thumbnails.php?album=46
Cabin sole hatches: http://bodylens.com/Gallery/thumbnails.php?album=45

4
Pearson-Specific / Re: Known Pearson Boats
« on: December 27, 2018, 07:05:41 PM »
I updated the file.

5
Pearson-Specific / Re: Known Pearson Boats
« on: December 23, 2018, 09:48:02 PM »
Rob,
I updated the Known Boat file with your current info.  If anyone else has updates, post here and I'll update the file.

6
Forum Support / New Boards Created - Many files uploaded
« on: December 10, 2018, 10:38:51 PM »
Most of the pages from SailingSeaDragon.com (Garner's former web site) have been turned into PDF files and uploaded to individual posts. There is a new category of boards named "Document Library - Manuals, Specifications, Service Bulletins"

This is a whole section of Boards that contain most of the files from Garner's site.  If anyone has documents or manual or completed modifications, you may post them to these new boards.

The original forum boards are for the Q & A that we've been using this forum for. I created these new Boards to help categorize and keep organized the any documents and manuals that we all deal with, like parts list, engine part lists, individual device manual (i.e. pump manuals, electronic device manuals, etc...).

When you upload, please follow the existing pattern and make the name of the post specific to what you uploaded. If you have different versions of manuals for the same part/device, you may include up to 4 attachments per post.

If I need to add a new Board (i.e. V-drive, Modifications, Pearson-specific, etc...), let me know and I'll add that Board.


7
Files have been uploaded. Scroll down the main page to see the new category called "Document Library - Manuals, Specifications, Service Bulletins"

Under those are where Garners pages are (attached PDFs to each post) as well as other files that I found in the lat 5 years.

8
Most of the data from Garner's website (sailingseadragon.com) are now posted on pearson365.com. Scroll down on the main page to see the new categories under heading called "Document Library - Manuals, Specifications, Service Bulletins"

Most of the pages sailingseadragon.com have been turned into PDF files and posted under topics relative to their contents, as well as other files that are not from Garner's site.

These boards are like all the others. You may post any documents, manuals, etc... here. 

9
I've sucked most of them down into PDF files. Essentially, each page/topic is a PDF. I have not taken the time to upload/post them (about 110 files, 125 mB). The delay is not the upload, but rather the organization of the files in the constraints of the forum interface. 

I thought of a new forum category ("Documentation" ) with each file uploaded to its own post. Some files are grouped (gear box, westerbeke, modifications, etc...).

If anyone has advice on how to organize  the files in the form, let me know. attached is a file list of the PDFs I made of Garner's site.

What I have to work with are Categories, Boards, and Posts.
Currently, we have one Category (Pearson 365 and 367, the main banner).  We have 11 Boards (Yacht club, Pilot House, Mechanic Shop, etc...). Below that we have Posts.

Options:
1. Make a Board for documentation, posts the files by topic
2. Make a Category for documentation with Boards per topic (gear box, modifications, engines, sails, etc...) then posts within those Boards
3. Post  files within existing Boards.

One aspect of all this is that pearson356.com is a bulletin board/forum and anyone can change/upload data. This does not conducive to the displaying of information  like one is used to seeing on a 'web site" (i.e. Garner's site).  Forums require little maintenance to keep files up-to-date (y'all do that).  Only maintenance is periodic backup and fix the shit when it breaks (rare). Forum management can be easily transferred to someone else to manage.  A web site requires a lot more management to keep files up-to-date. Web sites are relatively easy to build, but maintenance and updating the files is the draw back.


My goal is to keep the documents separate from other posts so they don't get lost down the threads and organized within the limited format available within the forum, without developing a web site.


Pearson 323 uses the same board software we do.
http://www.pearson323.com/forum/



11
Well, that is a simple idea and if I recall correctly, that is what pearson used on some of the interior overhead grabrails  that has none on the outside (in galley). 

I think I'll take that route.  Thanks y'all for making that an easy one.

12
I'm trying to figure out how to install additional grab bars (stainless steel grab bars) to the overhead inside the boat.  The existing grabrails are good for when I am over the settees, but I need some more along the center line. Actually about 12" or 18" away from the center line in two or three strategic places.

I figured out where I want these, but there is nothing on the outside to receive the through bolts and I don't want grab bar in those locations on the coachroof. I can just terminate with a nut and washer, but I'll stub my toes and knees on those. I can't use a cap/acorn nut because those will also hurt; they are too pointy. I need something to thread the bolt into, but is not conducive to stubbing toes or poking into buttcheeks or knees.
 
I also want to put a grab bar over the V berth on the forward facing, sloping end of the coach roof, but again, there is nothing on the exterior to receive the through bolt.

Does anyone have an idea how I can through bolt a grab bar to the overhead in the salon area and minimize the 'toe stub' risk on the exterior?

Thanks



13
Zulu,

I did not like the engine access.  When I replaced the tank, I changed the dimensions so it's a little shorter, but wider. Maintained the ~50 gallons, but now I have nearly a foot of space aft of the engine. 
I never thought of moving the engine forward. If you do that, let me know how it works out. That'd be interesting.
If you want closer pictures or measurements, let me know.

http://bodylens.com/Gallery/displayimage.php?album=16&pid=390#top_display_media

That additional space makes it much easier to change the raw water pump impeller. I moved the oil filter forward so I can get to it from the cabin, not the cockpit locker. I also added a strainer between the raw water pump and the heat exchanger to capture impeller bits (also accessible from the cabin, not shown in pictures The alternator adjustment arm is much easier. I made that with a tie rod and and two stainless steel rod ends.

https://www.mcmaster.com/8419k72
https://www.mcmaster.com/59915k23 (one left hand, one right and thread)


I also tore out all the cabinetry and am rebuilding it so all the panels will be removable and I'll be able easily get to all parts of the engine.
I'm not close to finished with this.

I have no good pictures showing access to the engine with panels removed, but here are some that give you an idea of the access.
http://bodylens.com/Gallery/displayimage.php?album=43&pid=827#top_display_media

http://bodylens.com/Gallery/displayimage.php?album=7&pid=473#top_display_media
http://bodylens.com/Gallery/displayimage.php?album=7&pid=492#top_display_media
http://bodylens.com/Gallery/displayimage.php?album=7&pid=497#top_display_media
http://bodylens.com/Gallery/displayimage.php?album=7&pid=90#top_display_media


14
Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: More sail!--Adding Additional Sails
« on: October 31, 2018, 11:46:05 PM »
Followup: 

Attached are pictures of my staysail sheet lead tracks. The sheets head aft from the track to cabin-top winches (port and stbd, not shown in pictures).


I don't remember from where I obtained the following information, so I can't cite the sources. I do know I didn't make it up; I read it somewhere.


sheet angle
 
 1. bisect leech/foot angle
 2. draw line from clew to midpoint of luff
 3. bisect that new angle, this is the sheet angle.
 

Tracks angled about 15 degrees from center (closer to center at fwd end, farther from center at after end.

Idea the behind angled  track:  when wind pipes up, ease the car back to give leach twist to spill he wind. move the car fwd and it flattens the leach and directs higher velocity to the lee of the main, giving main more lift.



15
Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: More sail!--Adding Additional Sails
« on: October 31, 2018, 11:41:52 PM »
Here are some documents about staysails and sheeting them.

I have 367. A PO removed the club, but did not install tracks for the correct sheeting angle.  I added a 4' piece of track on both sides of the coach roof for the correct sheeting angle.   Read the attached documents and you'll get  a better understanding of the where to put the sheet leads (fore/aft and athwartship placement) to trim the sail properly. One of the documents has info about staysail size and angle of the head of the sail.


Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 19