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Yeah, I can't quite figure out the use for that valve, and always leave it open.  Seems like if it was closed, it would prevent circulation in the closed cooling loop, or force all the coolant through the water heater and it's smaller hoses.  I just added a bypass at the back of the water heater to prevent that.  I was having overheating problems at the end of last season, and one of the service bulletins said a restriction in the water heater could cause that.  The bulletin recommended a bypass, so I'll see how that works out this season.
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Chuck Rudderly Confused, this is a huge help!   Thanks so much for the clear photos that show where to T into the engine.  I thought it went in near the thermostat from descriptions I had read but it makes more sense at the back of the head. 

I would guess your cutoff valve at the expansion tank is to send all the coolant flow through the water heater?  Personally, I'd think I'd want the opposite: a way to bypass the water heater flow would be a good thing....

Chuck Sailing_Photog
s/v Laura Jack
1979 P365 sloop

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Hi Sailing Photog,

I've been meaning to reply, and finally got around to taking a few photos.  My 1978 365 came with the setup shown in the pics, but I won't claim it is the "right way". All I can say is it works for me.  I don't have a port on the engine in the thermostat area, I have a T in the hose from the thermostat to the expansion tank.  The small end of the T (5/8") goes to one side of the water heater.  There is a valve between the thermostat and the T, but I have no idea what purpose it serves.  I just left it as it came (open).  The other hose goes from the water heater to a T on a pipe nipple to the water temp alarm sensor.  The pic of the back of the water heater shows the old (red) hoses, before replacement.  Hope this helps.

Chuck
Valhalla
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Sorry, can't help you with pictures, I don't have a westerbeke. 

Maybe someone will come a long right quick and post some pictures of their setup.
Until then, perhaps these will lead you to what you need.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f54/perkins-4-108-water-heater-plumbing-9594.html
https://www.sailangle.com/articles/details/id/11
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Thanks P69.  I had found most of those threads but was hoping for photos showing clearly which port is which on the thermostat area and what hose on the remote filler/expansion tank I should tap into.  Seems like all the engine info online I can find uses bad photocopies of screen printed manuals and you can't really see details.

I've been advised NOT to plumb the water heater in series, as the service bulletin 95 says to do. 

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ah, sorry for the distraction
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Here are some threads. A couple are for Universal engine, the others are for westerbeke (?)

The first has a pdf attached for a westerbeke service bulletin that addresses water heater plumbing.

http://www.pearson365.com/forum/index.php?topic=749.0
http://www.pearson365.com/forum/index.php?topic=1570
http://www.pearson365.com/forum/index.php?topic=31
http://www.pearson365.com/forum/index.php?topic=1430

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Pearson General Non-Mechanical System Maintenance and Repair / Re: Hot Water Heater
« Last post by P69 on April 14, 2018, 09:17:39 PM »
Attached is the pdf
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to be clear I have no idea either, but it sounds like a heat exchanger within a heat exchanger

my own heater is both 240v on shore and 12v off shore
and its plumbing is well, complicated
FWIW a illustration is below

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Pearson 365/367 Yacht Club / Re: 367 Traveling (Baby) Stays
« Last post by Nightwind on April 12, 2018, 05:34:44 PM »
 Kevin B. suggested this and it works perfect: I added additional track slides forward of fair leads.  That way I have two attachment points for the running backs.

Thanks Dave!

Mike
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