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In almost any other material one would recommend drilling out the end of the crack. After grinding out the crack and filling the hole you can almost guarantee that the crack propagating further is forever eliminated.

Amity: the mast corrosion should almost be expected, but it isnt fatal. You can easily acquire a new step and cut from the mast the appropriate amount, or go custom like I did. What you do need to do is consider the cost of mast out mast in, which isnt inconsiderable, but does allow other repairs and checks along the way. You know it depends on what you intend to do. I might be alone in this but I think you just cant buy boats like this new anymore. For everything else buy the boat and spend the same again fixing her up, and you will be quite near the mark one expects to ocean cruise with some care.

Also diesels of the Perkins ilk are almost continuously rebuildable, and not beyond the average sailor although initially perhaps a bit of a reach. Mines at what I consider the halflife of 4000 hours.
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the photos lie a bit, her finish isnt that pure, but come our autumn (fall) ...

I still havent got to the tank as the weather has been a bit horrendous. Its been like 107F here for a week but looks like cooling down to the 90s somewhere for a few days this week. Today the electrical connections to the mast were sorted out and she now has running lights, bow light and anchor light. Both the bow light and anchor light are now LEDs, I have in plan that the running lights will follow. The stainless from the galley stove is back from home to make it sparkle a bit, doesnt seem to have had much use.

A bit of a shock as on checking the mast she was pushing well forward, but a few hours with a 2lb hammer and suitable rests pushed the step 3/4" forward, taking out the sag in the furling genoa and bringing the mast bolt upright. I have to lose the water in the forward tank to adjust the trim for an empty fuel tank. Once the backstays are fully tight Im expecting we will be in the right place. Bill Shaw suggested the halyard loose from the sail should fall 6-12" aft of the mast.

Had a good win with a small fuel tank that will do until I pull the engine and put in a replacement. It checks out at 27 ltrs thats about 7.1 US gallons. Probably good for 12 hours steaming it will get us sailing in the gulfs through to KI (Kangaroo Island). Can supplement with a gerry can for an additional 20 litres which should keep me out of trouble.

So here is Zaya with her running lights, anchor light and bow light on, and the stove with her fresh brightwork
Will probably sell the stove for a metho unit and a microwave, but maybe not just yet.
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I think replacing the impeller will fix it. The resistance of the underwater discharge won't bother a working pump. Theoretically you could have an air leak on the suction side, but you would probably notice that.
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  She looks great posing there at the dock all neat & tidy... only an owner knows what "interesting" projects lurk behind the gleaming topsides and spotless deck.  Hopefully that fuel tank chore will be the last of the truly miserable jobs you'll be facing though rebuilding a head which contain the leavings of the last person to avail themselves of its service comes a real close second.

  Pictures of that tank removal adventure would be good.  Sooner or later all 365's face the same operation.

  Cheers!
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Pearson General Non-Mechanical System Maintenance and Repair / Re: what am I doing now
« Last post by ZULU40 on January 16, 2018, 03:11:43 PM »
Thanks very much, it looks like just what I need.

The sails are back from the sailmakers now, and look like they will suffice a years working up the boat around SA waters
The main was almost entirely retabled and some changes to allow more modern jiffy reefing
Mizzen is back on her boom already. These sails are 40 years old and include the boats hull number, should make quite a picture
Spoke to the sailmakers about tuning the rig too, bit of work there I expect.

Ive been focussed upon cleaning up below to make being aboard more likeable, and partly in reparation for selling the 3 burner stove and oven.
And getting some sufficient charge into the AGM home battery, as sea trials are coming within sight.

A Westerbeke alternator is on its way from the states and should arrive in a week or two
Already I seem to have a crew of experienced people to take her to sea, ... odd how this happens
To make them more at home the head is now serviceable and pressure water system is operating.
I dont have any electronics so its down to hand held sat-nav and paper

But this week, I need to cut that fuel tank in half to get it out of the boat through the sail locker
and replace the thing in the interim with a smaller auxiliary tank to get her through to winter.
Its not going to be easy as the cut will happen with a simple jig saw
it means putting plenty of water and soap into the tank which will inevitably find its way into the bilge.

To add to my woes its going to be over 100F, just to add some memorable discomfort
shall try to remember to get some pictures
Hope I dont blow myself to bits ... but even that ... wouldnt be the first time ...


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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Wind Vanes and Transom Luggage
« Last post by eveningebb on January 16, 2018, 03:11:28 PM »
Check out their website  http://hydrovane.com and talk to Will Curry.  His email and info is on the site under the Contact tab.  According to their site, you can mount it off-center without any loss of performance.  Read through the "Features" under "The Hydrovane" tab and check out the installation and operation instructions.

It was a fairly easy install.  The only difficulty as I remember was getting the backing plates and the the mounting pads trimmed to adjust for the camber and pitch in the transom. 

I particularly like the fact that the hydrovane gives you an auxiliary rudder.  You can use the boat's rudder to provide take out some of the weather helm.
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   When you clean up or replace the buss bars, you might want to give them a spray of this:  https://ihiqa2kjxfb4dhp9872la1cm-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/ff_brochure.pdf .

  I keep a rattle can or two of it aboard & have had excellent results in keeping connections clean & bright.  Excellent salt fog resistance.

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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Wind Vanes and Transom Luggage
« Last post by Nereid on January 16, 2018, 12:44:05 PM »
Thanks I'll give them a call.
How much did your whole set up (hydrovane and attach) cost to get running/working?
-Isaac
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Pearson General Non-Mechanical System Maintenance and Repair / Macerator plumbing
« Last post by SV Alfresco on January 16, 2018, 12:42:58 PM »
I completely revamped my head plumbing a couple of years ago. New head, tank, hoses, vent filter, and macerator.  The problem I'm having is it takes a long time for the macerator to prime. The location is near the top of the tank. I thought maybe I should lower it but didn't want it filled with crap all the time. Last year, I was winterizing the tank with the boat out of the water and ran the macerator (with a bucket underneath the boat) and it primed right away. Same thing this year. I'm wondering if there is not enough push with the outlet under water creating an air lock. I'm going to replace the impeller as a first try.  Anyone have any thoughts on a solution?

Mike

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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Wind Vanes and Transom Luggage
« Last post by eveningebb on January 16, 2018, 12:01:47 PM »
I centered the hydrovane on the transom.  You could talk to the Hydrovane rep about how to install their vane on your transom.  I've been very careful with the mizzen boom and the upper blade and have used a preventer on the mizzen boom and tilted or even removed the upper blade when tacking or gybing.  It really hasn't been a problem since the offshore passages I've done haven't require many tacks or gybes only adjustments to the vane when the direction of the wind changed. 


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